Ekinacea-Take One Everyday

Madrid is a tapas heaven. It is not just the classic stuff that is impressive but those places that re-invent the classics. There was a recent Food and Wine article. The article features the new meze spots of Istanbul and their similarity to the new tapas movement. But they are also different. The contents of both cuisines are distinct. So are the backgrounds of meals. Who can answer the question for manchego vs. feta. As difficult is the question that seeks to find the winner between meze and tapas. 

For many years, there has been Ece and her 9 restaurants reinventing the popular bite-size dishes in Istanbul. Changa also is the first of experimenting with the fusion of Turkish and other cuisines. In this way the Changa classic the grape leave wrapped hallumi with Asian chili sauce was an early sign of the reinvention of the meze culture. This year, I made it a point to visit new meze spots in Istanbul that invent that successfully re-invent the classics.

Meze is the food you eat when you are drinking. Like tapas, it is the reason that heavy drinkers appear so pleasant. This food is the excuse for drinking and the drinks are an excuse to eat this food. It builds communities as you have to share the dishes. A meze is best with raki, the national alcoholic beverage of Turkey. A raki is best (for me) with two ice cubes and cold water. Make sure the amount poured does not exceed 1/4th of the whole glass if you are having a good day, 1/3 if it was a shitty day. Like the tapas of Spain, the key is the oily combo of the cold dishes served mostly with bread that sucks the alcohol. The simplest and the best meze in Turkey is the combo of melon with feta cheese. A bite of each followed by a sip.  Beware of such nights' emotional conversation . Also beware of how much raki you consume as it is above 40% alcohol. The water added is to accent the taste not to diminish the effects of the alcohol. Savor your food and drinks as a typical meze night lasts between 2-3 hours at least. It should also be the sort of night that begins and ends in the same location. When done with food order more. Istanbul will offer you extras for a meze evening- sometimes it will be the view that will stop you from pondering on mundane details of your life, sometimes it will be the people watching, sometimes it will be the gasping due to over consumption of food. It will be cathartic. It will be necessary every so often.

Here are the best in Istanbul that undertook the mission of reinventing raki's best friends.

1)    Ece 9- Tunel/Taksim- Ece is a long time family friend. Her passion for her food comes across in each dish. What is also distinct is she re-invents all the classics. A must for vegetable lovers (and also offal lovers - the liver there is fantastic)- each dish remains in your bite. They are all too good to forget. When you go there- you tell her that I sent you. You sit down wherever you find and order the following. You have to get the dolmas (different stuffed vegetables) they are wrapped as thin as it gets. Also order domates kar yagdi (it snowed on tomatoes) a tomato salad topped with feta. As with all meze, the key is ordering a lot to share. The plates are neither small nor large. Order the grilled boreks (the phillo pastries with grill marks). You also have to order the kisir(a spicy bulgur salad) - reinvented in sushi shape. You have to get the zucchini dish -- it has walnut--cold covered with yoghurt and fresh dill. You will be full with all this. But you have to order at least one main course. My choice is either the paper thin liver steak or o shey (that thing) a meatball dish from heaven of pita, meatballs, topped with yoghurt. The semolina desert with pressed berries is a must. This is the Turkish cuisine that has to travel abroad. Yet it stays at Ece's, now tableless streets of Asmali Mescit area of Taksim. If Ece is around ask her what is good as she travels all around Turkey for ingredients and inspirations.

2)    Munferit- Galata-Taksim-  A new addition to the neighborhood, Munferit is definitely more for the new meze searcher with style. The interior resembles a restaurant from the lower east side of new york or from Stockholm, Sweden. Young, chic and noisy, what they serve is actually better than what the initial impression of the place. It reminded me of the new chic tapas spots in Madrid such as Estado Puro. Get the circassian chicken (chicken with walnuts) but this time made with duck. It is amazing. Also get the porcini mushrooms with melted feta in the parchment paper.  Get kuru kofte (fried meatballs) served w scrambled eggs. On your way out get the lokma for desert (fried sweet dough filled with a surprise) If you are into nightlife- also stick around as the upstairs bar turns into a club.

3)    Maya- Karakoy-Istanbul- This is also a new spot. Even though there are main courses the mezes are what you go for. What has to be on your table is the arnavut cigeri (the fried liver dish)- even if you are not into offal - they will convert you. The re-invention of sucuk ekmek (the bread with sausage) is brilliant. So is the fish carpaccio and the pastrami topped hummus. End the evening with mastic pudding. It is so good.

4)    Changa or Muzede Changa - Taksim or Emirgan- Istanbul- Changa is not necessarily a meze spot but they have been re-inventing Turkish cuisine since I was 17. They have theme weeks where you can try different menus. Both restaurant have a stunning interior. Muzedechanga is your choice for the summer. With stunning views of Istanbul, you order the following--olive braised fennel w fava- changa sucuk and the deep fried tongue.  You also have to get the hallomi wrapped w grape leaves and the filo stuffed w shrimp and celery. The cocktails are amazing at Changa so for once  --- replace raki with a Changa Passion and if they still have it Istanbul (a cocktail with both raki and vodka so do not have more than one) The main courses are as good but a night made up of cold and hot starters will be sufficient.

Not necessarily a meze spot but with amazing hot and cold appetizers, Muzedechanga is the only mentioned place that combines amazing food with amazing views of the Bosphorus.