Ekinacea-Take One Everyday

As our return date was August, also a nice welcome was the fresh new vegetables- this is the season for tomatoes, corn and more. Some zucchini flowers are still out. 

What is fascinating is how fresh produce is much easier to work with. As the produce tastes as itself, (which majority of store bought fruits and vegetables do not) the advantage of cooking with these ingredients is the less you have to do with them. 

We had a small dinner upcoming. With the ingredients from the farmer's market I produced a simple but filling (and mostly vegetarian/vegan) menu. 

The menu included the following--- Swisschord kale borek, roasted vegetable and basil salad, heirloom corn tomatoes as appetizers-- Main course is hunkar begendi an eggplant mash usually topped with lamb but I replaced the lamb with wine cooked mushroom mix-- desert was cracked into pieces chocolate bars served next to farmers'market bought fresh rasberries. All takes few minutes to cook and rely on the natural taste of the vegetables. A few rules though: 

ALWAYS KEEP A BOTTLE OF NICE OLIVE OIL. like the fresh vegetable the nice olive oil speaks for itself.

DO NOT OVER SPICE. the key to cooking with fresh grown vegetables are to let them be. one or two spices or herbs per dish is the way to go. 

Let start with the appetizers.---

WHEN I DO THE SHOPPING LISTS I ASSUME THAT YOU HAVE BASIC SPICES SO THEY ARE NOT ON THAT LIST. TO ENSURE YOU HAVE EVERYTHING READ THROUGH THE RECIPES. 

GREENS BOREK

Shopping list: Turkish yufka, a block of cheap feta, packaged or fresh greens(swiss chard, kale and spinach will work), plain yoghurt (small), 1-2 eggs, olive oil

Where does the borek come from? The South Slavs call it burek - us turks call it borek. It is almost a filo dough dish and you can make it with filo although this recipe is with yufka- turkish version of filo dough- thicker when bought in the us in vacuum packs. You can buy it online. 

To wet filo pieces: mix one egg, 1-2 tablespoons of oil (vegetable or olive oil), 1-2 tablespoons of unflavored yoghurt, a cup of water- whisk this combo. 

When you buy the yufka it is somewhat stuck together. You can seperate small pieces. You are trying to make layers. You should use the dough so that you put as much in the buttom as you would put on top. If the sheets seperate don't worry. Do a patch work as you wet them they will come together. Before you put your filling in a rectagular baking dish of medium to large size do two-three layers of the though in ways it would fit your pan. Each layer you lay should be topped with the liquid mixture you describe above. You can use your hands so the filling seeps through the dough. 

Filling: Mix store or farms market bought of greens of your choice. I used two bags of spinach and kale pre-packed from Trader's Joe. Add a tiny bit of water so that it wilts the greens. A spoonful of olive oil. Close and stir here and there. This should take approximately 5 minutes. Mix the greens as the parts in the bottom small down. After 5-10 minutes when your greens are cooked (1) get rid of excess water (you can drain your grains and put them back to the pot) (2) get a block of the cheapest feta you bought from the store (any kind) crumble it on top and mix when it is hot with the greens. 

Put the filling on top of the first two layers. Distribute evenly. Then put another 2-3 layers of the dough. Repeat the same way- a layer and the liquid press with your fingers make sure that the liquid is all around. Pour whatever is left of your liquid to the top layer. You can always make more of the liquid mixture if it runs out. 

Optional: top it with black sesames if you can get a hold of it. 

BLACK SESAMES ARE AMAZING FOR BAKING! 

Preheat oven at 350-375 F. Bake your borek for 40-50 minutes in a preheated oven. When the top is golden your borek is ready. 

HEIRLOOM AND CORN SALAD 

Shopping List: 3-4-5 heirloom tomates, 3-4 corns, 1 lime, olive oil

This has no recipe really. 

Buy the best heirloom tomatoes at your farmers market. Bring them home and wash them. 

Buy corn from the same market (the season is ending - be quick) 

Boil a pot of water. Add your corn (3 or so) to the boiling salted water (add salt too I forgot) and cook for 10-12 minutes in medium heat. Take the corn out of the water. Cut the kennels of the whole corn. 

Cut your heirloom tomates however you like. I usually just rid it of its hard parts and cut based on the shape of the tomatoes I have. 

Mix your corn with tomatoes. Salt it to your liking. With salt because it is based on personal taste I think less is always better. A bit of cracked pepper. Add a generous bit of good olive oil. (1-2 tablespoons not a cup by the way when I say generous) Squeeze the juice of a lime on top (I don't know why but I think lime goes better with heirlooms) IF you have it get a cilantro(fresh) Just take of 5-6 leaves and leave it on top of your already mixed salad. 

ROASTED VEGETABLE SALAD 

Shopping List: 2-3 zucchinis, 3-4 bell peppers, 4 red potatoes, 2 red onions, a bunch of fresh basil, garlic, olive oil 

I baked my farmers market bought vegetables as soon as they were bought. This was fresh zucchini and bell peppers. I revisited the market the day my dinner party was and bought some red potatoes and 2 med size red onions. Baking depends on the vegetable. High heat (400 F) is your friend and checking your vegetables is what you should do. I baked zucchini and bell peppers together (took about 30 minutes as I like a crunch on my zucchini) and cut up the potatoes in equal size and wedges from onions (took about 40 minutes) Before you bake drizzle top with coarse salt and olive oil. 

That is it. You can keep this in the refrigrator and use it for whatever. But if you are making the salad I made, mix all your roasted vegetables together. I bought fresh basil leaves and coarsely chopped about 8-10 leaves. I minced a garlic clove and added that to my nice olive oil-(1-2 tablespoons) added onto that the juice of a half a lemon. Quickly whisk and make a vinegratte. Add on top of your vegetables. Top it with the fresh basil and that is it. You have divine and filling salad. 

As for the Main Courses... 

HUNKAR BEGENDI (Eggplant Mash) 

Shopping List: 1-2 large eggplants for baking, flour, milk, butter, a bit of grated cheese (what would work: mozarella or kashkaval)

This is simple but divine. Hunkar begendi in Turkish means the king liked it and he liked it for a reason. Eggplants are used a lot in Turkey and this mash - a perfect sub for mashed potatoes tastes amazing. Great to serve with meat- if you are a faux vegetarian like myself for cleansing purposes are also a great bed for grilled or sauteed warm vegetable dish. In this case I will not include the recipe  but I just topped mine with sauteed mushrooms (portabello and crimini) with dryed thyme, salt pepper, olive oil and a touch red or white wine). 

Bake one or two  of the fat big eggplants you buy from the farmers market. Before you make make small knife marks around your eggplant letting air in. Just stick a knife in and out around the eggplant. Preheat oven in 400F. Slightly rub your egplant w olive oil and salt. Put it in. Move the eggplant to its different sides every 10-15 minutes (total around 40-50 minutes depending on the size of your eggplant) When it is cooked the hard fat eggplant should feel mushy inside. I prepare big bath of cold water with ice, squeeze a lemon inside and put the eggplants in there. Let it cool. Once cold -- cut the stem of the eggplant and clean it off its outside. The remaining insides of the eggplants you put in a cutting board and chop as fine as you can. 

In the meantime -- in a pot- melt a tablespoon of butter and add to that a tablespoon of olive oil. When hot add 2-3 tablespoons of flour. Mix and let it get golden. It should make small dough like peaks. Add to that 1/4 or so cup of milk. Mix or whisk together. Add your eggplants to that mixture. Add salt.(two three small pinches) A little bit of cracked pepper. Take handheld processor (if you do not have that pouring the mixture when not too hot to an actual food processor and pouring it back will help) Into it also add 1/4 cup of grated kashkaval or mozarella cheese. Process + Mix until it takes the consistency of mashed potatoes. Taste to make sure it is creamy and tasty. 

Top it with a steak, lamb or vegetable. 

For desert---- if you are lazy like me 

RASBERRIES WITH CHOCOLATE 

Shopping List: A box or two of rasberries, a bar of chocolate

Buy a nice bar of chocolate 

Buy a box or two of rasberries. 

Seperate the bar into pieces. Put that next to the rasberries. 

Offer tea if you want to be remembered as a nice host.  My favorite is the Harney and Sons -- Hot Cinamon Sunset tea.

Chasing Jay Jay at Stockholm

My fascination with Sweden begun in 1994. This is the date that I purchased my first Jay Jay Johansson CD (not the jazz artist but the avant-garde pop singer). The electronic dark sounds coupled with the singers depressed voice made me imagine a country that this music was a soundtrack for. After JJJ- my next discovery was E.S.T, a jazz band whose CD I bought by chance. I followed Swedish music closely over the years. The music was the reason why I wanted to go to Sweden. From the music begun a fascination with things Swedish- murder mysteries to food. I remember the meal that I had for my birthday at Aquavit a couple years back in New York.  Sweden was one of the three places that I wanted to see for a very long time. When I received a gift of a visit there I was ecstatic. Finally will I be able to hear the land of the soundtrack in person.

From the music I was expecting a place dark but intriguing. As I do for most places that I visit in the recent years before our departure I did a social media shout out for those who had information about Stockholm. I re-connected with a couple friends who resided there. When we arrived at Stockholm my first impression was how much smaller the Arlanda airport was and how much older it looked than what I expected of Sweden. (for those of you who are looking for the more lively Scandinavian experience please visit: Copenhagen).  You are greeted by the pictures of famous Swedes (Greta Garbo to the author of the Girl with a Dragon Tatoo trilogy) We took a bus into the city and from the city we took a cab to our hotel which was located slightly outside - 1.5 km from the Photography Museum at the Marina Tower. The hotel though was what I expected Stockholm to be- stoic, silent, well-designed. The Elite Hotel at the Marina Tower is worth the daily long walks. They also have a shuttle-boat into the city. It stands on the water. Our room had amazing water-views, beautiful furniture and perhaps open of the most comfortable beds that I ever slept on. In this part of town you hear near to no sounds. The city stands in distance. There is an occasional fog that compliments the gray air. Night never becomes morning morning never becomes night. Even in the light days, the hours are in limbo searching for their true color. 

In Stockholm, during the month of July, it never gets completely dark. There is an interesting pace to colors. 8 PM is the brightest hour we experienced. Yet even when it gets dark it is never pitch dark. There is always a light out there. This explains a lot about the music.

What to Do in Stockholm 

Long walks in Stockholm are delightful. The Photography Museum on the side of the town that we were staying at has stunning views of the city. They also have an amazing cafe on the top floor of the building. You can go there for lunch or drinks. They also have a cafe outside but the one on the top floor is much better. The exhibits are good. It is definitely worth the visit. Long walks around town are fun. A quick visit to Gamla Stan (historic part) is a must. There are narrow streets and it is one of the oldest downtowns in the world. I liked the claustrophobic lineup of the buildings I also liked their colors. 

The Photography Museum is great to spend an afternoon at. The cafe has stunning views. It also has great food.

Before you cross to Gamla Stan on the side of the Photography museum is the Gotgatan Street with lots of cool shops. Swedish fashion is expensive but one piece will update your look for a long while. There are also design stores that will add cool touches to your apartment. In the main city, there are design shops and long ports. The city consists of many islands. Go to the island with the Wasamuseum- the museum that holds the old ship that sank. It is worth a visit. I also received a lot of recommendations to the Djurgarden there but I did not get a chance to visit. Apparently there is an amazing restaurant that serves food produced in the gardens there. 

At night you can have a nice meal. I was in Sweden for the music. In Gamla Stan we stopped at Stompen an old jazz club. It is festive. The musicians are mostly not swedish but it is that live music atmosphere that you drink and move to. What is a gem is the Glenn Miller Cafe- stationed in the back streets of the shopping are this small cafe/bar has some of the best that Swedish jazz has to offer. We ordered mussels to accompany the music. This was what I was expecting my time to be- crammed in my seat, feeling contemplative due to the music that has a dark undertone- a darkness of the city and the country that slips into the notes of the music. The music creeps you in a good way.

My quest to find Swedish Jazz at Stockholm ended happily at the Glenn Miller Cafe. A small band playing the best Swedish jazz to offer.

Where to Eat at Stockholm 

The first night, we met a family friend. We met at the T-Bar in the Diplomat Hotel. Right on the water, this is the hot spot. Drinking is very expensive in Sweden. My father suggested a great solution that will not hurt your pocket. If you are a beer drinker, couple your beer order with two aquavits- it is the national drink and it will double the impact of your drink. Also good at T-bar is the house champagne. The food is decedent. Order the shrimp plate- a lot of fresh shrimp with bread- Salmon is also always good in Sweden. Pricey but good it is a must try.

The amazing herring appetizer at T-Bar

What everyone recommended me is the Urban Deli at the Nyogen neighborhood by the Photography Museum. It is part deli, part supermarket, part restaurant. Each time we walked by it - it was busy. Go there for the smoked shrimp or any of the fresh fish choices.  Around there is Parlans- a great caramel store (thanks to Amy for suggestions). If Parlans is closed, Urban Deli also sell their candy. Across from Urban Deli is Roxy which also has good food.

Urban Deli is always crowded. Good for brunch, order a smoked fish dish.

By our hotel is a little on the water bar/cafe- Boule and Barsa. Go there just to relax. It is a bit far from the action but they have bocce, they also have good food.

The deconstructed burger at Boule and Bersa was delicious. What was also cool was the lack there of tourists and the relaxed atmosphere by the canal

Street food is also good. If you spent too much too quickly indulge in the weird hot dogs form one of the stands that comes with mashed potatoes inside. It is good and filling. 

When walking around in Stockholm if you come across this Swedish candy get a couple and try. It is basically licorice with a lot of different flavors.

What to Think at Stockholm 

How can people be so good looking? (and the answer to that is revealed to you by a combination of genetics and the large number of people running around here) 

Lost the opportunity to look like someone from Sweden from birth am I forever doomed? Will replicating the rigorous exercise regimen result in comparable looks? 

How can music be so reflective of a place? If you are not familiar with Swedish music, indulge in some Tonbruket- the band formed after E.S.T front-man died in a diving accident. It is amazing music. When you close your eyes you will feel Sweden.

Gamla Stan's narrow streets are good for a visit.

Why does the darkness of the city never leave, even during the rare light months? 

How can the population bare the darkness when it comes? (ironically Swedes leave the city in July-August when it is light and come back when the city starts getting lighter- for that reason for a full experience - maybe think about a trip during the darker months) 

How can one survive on Swedish food? (I loved the few meals I had but I can not imagine consuming smoked fish, raw fish, meatballs and root vegetables for much longer than the weekend that I was there) 

How can I dream to visit a place for so long and how can I leave with the feeling that I do not want to come back upon departure? 

Why does a drink need a cover?

Madrid is my second home. I have no good reason to love this city. It has no views. I do not have many friends there. Yet I keep coming back to Madrid. I have been there 5 times in the past 2 years. I get an itch to go back every 6 months. We match somehow. I remember the first times I went to Madrid. 20 years old, it was one of the first European cities I went by myself. At the time, I was not a big pork eater. I blame that for not falling in love with Madrid at the first site. Still, my first visits to Madrid was still filled with excitement. Every meal, I felt as though I was in an Almodovar movie. How good is he in capturing the colors and the feeling of Spain in general. When I went back many years later, I still had a recollection of where everything was. Now though, I had a desire to eat like never before. I rediscovered Madrid a bite at a time. 

Madrid is known for its tapas- meaning a top/cover to a drink. Only with the systematic consumption of this food can you be ok from the all day drinking you will be doing. It is a must to drink all day in Madrid, you will see many doing the same. A genius invention of small glass beers (go for local favorite Mahou) to wine in the evening, the days in Madrid are best spent slightly tipsy from morning to evening. 

What to Eat @ Madrid

Casual Eats

Everyone will tell you to go to Mercado de St Miguel. They are right go there. It is one of the many open food markets that has been popping up around the world. There are big tables in the middle. You can pick different foods from different vendors and come to the middle to eat. Finding a table is a challenge but the foods are great. I recommend the cheese stand and the tapas stand right next to the cheese.

As you will be eating and drinking all day at Madrid, it is good to give quick tapas breaks.  The best spot to do that is Plaza de St Ana. It is festive in the nice weather and a wide selection of tapas places. You will not go wrong. Order a couple glasses of wine or beer to go along with your meal.

If you want another quick bite, go into a Museo del Jamon (a museum dedicated to jam) There are so many all around Madrid (one right by Sol) . Get a couple sandwiches stuffed with iberico. 

Right in the center of Sol area is my favorite patisserie, La Mallorquina. You see the big display with amazing sweets. I go there for Pepito con Crema- an amazing dough desert stuffed with cream.

The Belle Artes building (right across from the Prado museum) is a very nice setup for a before dinner drink and appetizers. 

Go to the neighborhood - La Latina- on a Friday or Saturday night. There are some tapas joints that are good. But the point is to go from one joint to the other having a tapas and a drink at each until it is 2 or 3 am. If you over do it you will be one of the many in the neighborhood who is drunk and loud and happy.

Nice Eats and Innovative Eats

La Botin 

Botin is the oldest restaurant in the world. Hence it is touristy. However you should go for lunch. Some go for dinner but the food is heavy. You have to order a whole suckling pig or a baby lamb. 

Pan De Lujo 

Innovative cuisine in the shopping district of Madrid. You have to order the Russian salad and the dried tomato appetizers. The atmosphere is also very pleasant. From the door it looks like a store.

Estado Puro 

Nice tapas spot with innovative tapas. The atmosphere is amazing. Get the re-constructed patatas bravas and the sardines.

Gabinoteca 

My favorite restaurant in Madrid. The most innovative restaurant in town, nestled in a residential neighborhood, you can order anything but what you have to definitely order is the warm potatoes in a jar with truffle oil. Also make sure to order the scallops as well. It is a gastropub so it comes with a great wine menu as well. If you speak Spanish, the wine menu is in the shape of a test asking for you preferences in music, films, and other questions about your mood and dispositions. When you follow the lines, supposedly you reach to the wine of your liking.

What to do at Madrid Besides Eating @ Madrid 

Both Prado (classic art) and Reina Sofia(modern art) are great museums. Reina Sofia has great Dali and Picasso pieces. Prado is the home from Goya. 

Plaza Mayor is a must-see. As cheesy as it gets, join the other tourists, pay a bit too much for your cafe con leche because of the location and take photos with the cheesy entertainers. 

Madrid is also good for shopping. Go around Sol and Gran Via and get what the Spanish fashion has to offer you. If you are into high-end shopping go to the Salamanca neighborhood of Madrid. 

For a good flamenco show go to Casa Patas. When you enter it is a tapas bar behind it is the location where they host the show.

Sit at Plaza St Ana and watch people. Be amazed by the amount of alcohol being consumed early in the day. Decide to do the same when you return home. Without the atmosphere in Madrid the drinking is not as much fun (experience speaking) 

Go out at Chueca neighborhood. Great bars and gay bars. Late night gay-tapas bars are amazing. So is the club Studio 54. In this neighborhood Calle de Horteleza and Calle Fuencarral are huge shopping streets. 

Visit Hakei a great new clothing brand from Spain and Salvador Bachiller for amazing bags and luggages. They are all around town

Also for great men's wear- visit right by Plaza de St Ana- the Eduardo Rivera store. 

Did you know that South of Spain, such as Seville is 2 hours with fast train from Atocha Station? 

Where to Stay at Madrid 

I stayed at many. If you are going to pick a budget hotel go for around Gran Via or Sol. If you want the nice ordeal Hotel Wellington is my best.