Ekinacea-Take One Everyday

Chasing Jay Jay at Stockholm

My fascination with Sweden begun in 1994. This is the date that I purchased my first Jay Jay Johansson CD (not the jazz artist but the avant-garde pop singer). The electronic dark sounds coupled with the singers depressed voice made me imagine a country that this music was a soundtrack for. After JJJ- my next discovery was E.S.T, a jazz band whose CD I bought by chance. I followed Swedish music closely over the years. The music was the reason why I wanted to go to Sweden. From the music begun a fascination with things Swedish- murder mysteries to food. I remember the meal that I had for my birthday at Aquavit a couple years back in New York.  Sweden was one of the three places that I wanted to see for a very long time. When I received a gift of a visit there I was ecstatic. Finally will I be able to hear the land of the soundtrack in person.

From the music I was expecting a place dark but intriguing. As I do for most places that I visit in the recent years before our departure I did a social media shout out for those who had information about Stockholm. I re-connected with a couple friends who resided there. When we arrived at Stockholm my first impression was how much smaller the Arlanda airport was and how much older it looked than what I expected of Sweden. (for those of you who are looking for the more lively Scandinavian experience please visit: Copenhagen).  You are greeted by the pictures of famous Swedes (Greta Garbo to the author of the Girl with a Dragon Tatoo trilogy) We took a bus into the city and from the city we took a cab to our hotel which was located slightly outside - 1.5 km from the Photography Museum at the Marina Tower. The hotel though was what I expected Stockholm to be- stoic, silent, well-designed. The Elite Hotel at the Marina Tower is worth the daily long walks. They also have a shuttle-boat into the city. It stands on the water. Our room had amazing water-views, beautiful furniture and perhaps open of the most comfortable beds that I ever slept on. In this part of town you hear near to no sounds. The city stands in distance. There is an occasional fog that compliments the gray air. Night never becomes morning morning never becomes night. Even in the light days, the hours are in limbo searching for their true color. 

In Stockholm, during the month of July, it never gets completely dark. There is an interesting pace to colors. 8 PM is the brightest hour we experienced. Yet even when it gets dark it is never pitch dark. There is always a light out there. This explains a lot about the music.

What to Do in Stockholm 

Long walks in Stockholm are delightful. The Photography Museum on the side of the town that we were staying at has stunning views of the city. They also have an amazing cafe on the top floor of the building. You can go there for lunch or drinks. They also have a cafe outside but the one on the top floor is much better. The exhibits are good. It is definitely worth the visit. Long walks around town are fun. A quick visit to Gamla Stan (historic part) is a must. There are narrow streets and it is one of the oldest downtowns in the world. I liked the claustrophobic lineup of the buildings I also liked their colors. 

The Photography Museum is great to spend an afternoon at. The cafe has stunning views. It also has great food.

Before you cross to Gamla Stan on the side of the Photography museum is the Gotgatan Street with lots of cool shops. Swedish fashion is expensive but one piece will update your look for a long while. There are also design stores that will add cool touches to your apartment. In the main city, there are design shops and long ports. The city consists of many islands. Go to the island with the Wasamuseum- the museum that holds the old ship that sank. It is worth a visit. I also received a lot of recommendations to the Djurgarden there but I did not get a chance to visit. Apparently there is an amazing restaurant that serves food produced in the gardens there. 

At night you can have a nice meal. I was in Sweden for the music. In Gamla Stan we stopped at Stompen an old jazz club. It is festive. The musicians are mostly not swedish but it is that live music atmosphere that you drink and move to. What is a gem is the Glenn Miller Cafe- stationed in the back streets of the shopping are this small cafe/bar has some of the best that Swedish jazz has to offer. We ordered mussels to accompany the music. This was what I was expecting my time to be- crammed in my seat, feeling contemplative due to the music that has a dark undertone- a darkness of the city and the country that slips into the notes of the music. The music creeps you in a good way.

My quest to find Swedish Jazz at Stockholm ended happily at the Glenn Miller Cafe. A small band playing the best Swedish jazz to offer.

Where to Eat at Stockholm 

The first night, we met a family friend. We met at the T-Bar in the Diplomat Hotel. Right on the water, this is the hot spot. Drinking is very expensive in Sweden. My father suggested a great solution that will not hurt your pocket. If you are a beer drinker, couple your beer order with two aquavits- it is the national drink and it will double the impact of your drink. Also good at T-bar is the house champagne. The food is decedent. Order the shrimp plate- a lot of fresh shrimp with bread- Salmon is also always good in Sweden. Pricey but good it is a must try.

The amazing herring appetizer at T-Bar

What everyone recommended me is the Urban Deli at the Nyogen neighborhood by the Photography Museum. It is part deli, part supermarket, part restaurant. Each time we walked by it - it was busy. Go there for the smoked shrimp or any of the fresh fish choices.  Around there is Parlans- a great caramel store (thanks to Amy for suggestions). If Parlans is closed, Urban Deli also sell their candy. Across from Urban Deli is Roxy which also has good food.

Urban Deli is always crowded. Good for brunch, order a smoked fish dish.

By our hotel is a little on the water bar/cafe- Boule and Barsa. Go there just to relax. It is a bit far from the action but they have bocce, they also have good food.

The deconstructed burger at Boule and Bersa was delicious. What was also cool was the lack there of tourists and the relaxed atmosphere by the canal

Street food is also good. If you spent too much too quickly indulge in the weird hot dogs form one of the stands that comes with mashed potatoes inside. It is good and filling. 

When walking around in Stockholm if you come across this Swedish candy get a couple and try. It is basically licorice with a lot of different flavors.

What to Think at Stockholm 

How can people be so good looking? (and the answer to that is revealed to you by a combination of genetics and the large number of people running around here) 

Lost the opportunity to look like someone from Sweden from birth am I forever doomed? Will replicating the rigorous exercise regimen result in comparable looks? 

How can music be so reflective of a place? If you are not familiar with Swedish music, indulge in some Tonbruket- the band formed after E.S.T front-man died in a diving accident. It is amazing music. When you close your eyes you will feel Sweden.

Gamla Stan's narrow streets are good for a visit.

Why does the darkness of the city never leave, even during the rare light months? 

How can the population bare the darkness when it comes? (ironically Swedes leave the city in July-August when it is light and come back when the city starts getting lighter- for that reason for a full experience - maybe think about a trip during the darker months) 

How can one survive on Swedish food? (I loved the few meals I had but I can not imagine consuming smoked fish, raw fish, meatballs and root vegetables for much longer than the weekend that I was there) 

How can I dream to visit a place for so long and how can I leave with the feeling that I do not want to come back upon departure?