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| Please beware of a gang of cats that will meow convincingly as you order food in Bozcaada. They are everywhere and are on a mission |
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| A typical wine hour at the house we rented at Bozcaada- Corvus wine, ezine feta , island olives and more |
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| The Eggplant Meze at Lodos, Bozcaada |
How to not to get too drunk on too much wine
It was risky business. We decided to go to Bozcaada not knowing too much of each other. We also did not know much about the island. Bozcaada is about 6-7 hours drive from Istanbul (please do not listen to the locals who will tell you it is 4 hours as I am yet to figure out how they make it in such a short time) Across from Canakkale, the homeland of the infamous Troy myths, with its Aegean sea, if you ask someone from Turkey what it is known for, they will quickly tell you two things: wine and cold water(its swimming water that is). They will be right. Bozcaada is almost the Napa Valley of Turkey, the most wine production per square meter (I am not sure but it seemed so) It has decent food (but pricey because you are on an island) but it has also a lot of opportunity for one to indulge in less pricey ways (windmills and sunset with a glass of wine?)
What to Eat and Drink @Bozcaada?
@ Home
Since you are in a wine producing island it is fairly cheap to get wine to drink at home. The Talay Wine company, a producer for table wines in Istanbul for generation have decent and drinkable products. They have a store in the main town. Corvus is the crown prince of island wine making. Their facilities are 5-10 minute drive to main town (follow signs). You can also do wine-tasting in both facilities. I am a white wine drinker and Corvus' Bornova Misket is a must. It is also unique as it is made out of Turkish grapes. Dry with some flower under tones. Assuming that you head to Bozcaada in the summer or early Fall *best times to go, it will not be a time to cook big meals at a home. However their great jams and cheese on the island. You are right across from Ezine, one of the main cheese-makers of Turkey- their feta is impeccable. The bread at the local bakery is also a must. Try their corn bread with dill. They will slice it for you. When there also get a small supply of their famous mastic cookies- old Greek recipe and a must. Set-up a table around sunset with the jams, the cheese, the bread. Open up a bottle of wine and watch the sunset. If you can not see the sunset from where you are, wine and such food puts one in a contemplative but joyous mood. So with the effect of both, if you are with a loved one, express your love. Feel the breeze and wonder why you have to work the rest of the year. Also a must is conspiring about giving up your life wherever you are and moving to a similar setting.
@ Restaurants
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| The Bakkal Restaurant/Bar at Bozcaada offers a unique menu. Do not shy away from pasta dishes as they are amazing. Late night wine and mojitos are also available |
Where to Stay@Bozcaada?
There are two types of hotels on the island. (1)Ones in the town, an old Greek town. Staying in town gives you access by walk to the spaces in the town and to basic market shopping. Beware that you will have to drive to the better beaches and to the windmills to watch the sunset. This is not so much a pedestrian island and best enjoyed by a rented car or a bike. (2)There are also a number of hotels on the vineyard side of the island. More breathtaking than the city, these are large homes divided into rooms or aparts. You are basically in the middle of the vineyards. (3)In the edge of the town is the priciest but best option is the Kaikas- a set of restored historic building. Each room is unique and the place is filled with antiques.
(4)You can also do what we did. We rented a small house from a local for around 1000 turkish liras for a month. Given it was pretty basic but it was right up the hill by the town and it had stunning views of the island/town.
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| A typical home at Bozcaada is small and colorful. It is a delight to walk around town and take photos. |
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| Pictures of the windmills- best spot to view the sunset! |
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| This is a picture of me right when the sun is about to set. By the windmills you can get a full view! |
In the afternoon you can take stroll across town. It is an old Greek town with interesting buildings.
During sunset you drive to windmills.You will know you are on the right track when you see a convoy of cars going there. Before going there make sure to pack however many wineglasses you need, however bottles of wine you need to accompany you to the scene. When you get there, you are in for a show of nature. Also great spot for people watching.
Go for occasional dinners and vineyard visits. The bazaar of Bozcaada also is not bad.
What to Think @ Bozcaada?
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| A secluded beach we came across at Bozcaada. There are actually many. It helps to have beach chairs which we packed with us on our way to the island as it helped us to make a secluded beach habitable. This one is right by Corvus main building. |
When jumping into cold water, think about how long it takes for one to jump into things no matter how pleasurable afterwards.
When drinking wine think about what it takes to produce it . Always so detached from production, us moderns tend to forget the making of things.
When looking at the sunset, think about your attachment to big cities. Is it really necessary after all to make more money to spend more money?
When eating the pepper paste at Bakkal, think about what the captain might have put in the mixture to make it so good?
When driving through the island, looking down on the cliffs, try not to think.
When at Bozcaada, think about the value and beauty of places that are not easy to get to (Bozcaada- is a strenuous weekend trip as you have to drive to two ferries). There is something remarkable at sights that are hard to get to. I am more drawn to such places each day.