Ekinacea-Take One Everyday

We rented a small bungalow for a part of the summer. (soon to come as to where/how). Summer vacation in one spot has not been an option for a while. When growing up, friends and family had what we call in turkish "yazlik"- a summer house. My parents were always critical of the concept as it was double the expense to up keep two places and those who were in the hold of the "yazlik" would not necessarily get there anytime but the summer. Even though it may sound like a retreat, this summer house concept was also usually a burden for the owner, as those (much like my family) would visit those with a summer house for extended vacation. The hostess of the house spent long summer days preparing meals. Popular yazlik locations were the south of Turkey (Kusadasi, Bodrum, Antalya). Some also had more accessible summer homes in close proximity to Istanbul(like my grandparent's). Every summer ever since I was 4, thanks to my grandparents, we got to go to their summer home in Silivri, an hour outside of Istanbul. An OCD kid at the time, I spent the short drive constantly asking whether or not we were on the right road as I had fears of getting lost (calmed down when I learned to read the road signs). The bungalow we are in now makes me think about those summers as both my grandparents and this house's interiors are made out of wood. 

In my grandparents summer house there was a small front garden overlooking the sea. Great setup for a view but resistant to growing grass for some reason, I remember my late grandfather urging all of us to not to step on the garden's ground for his latest grass experiment to succeed. Wasn't the garden to step on after all? On the side of the house was a mulberry tree, a dream tree for kids like me for two reasons (1) I collected and made artificial environments for lady bugs and they were a host to those lady bugs - the tree provided easy access for the collection process (2) easy access to fruit that resulted with mulberry-overconsumption cramps. Next door was the house of another grandmother, whose grandkids were half French. My childhood friend Emily and I never got to exchange words properly- some word I heard I understood later in life after taking French. Alas we had a great friendship. The point of all this recollection of memory is due to the memories of food that it comes with. 

Ever since we arrived here, we have been commenting on the lightness of the meals. Swimming and fresh produce eating is giving me the illusion of temporary healthiness that is bound to be lost in sight of tempting food and drink. Yet when I think about my childhood summers in our "yazlik" at Silivri, it is anything but lightness I remember. The days' sequence were determined by the order of food that we had. At the time, I must mention, we were all heavy -- as years went by we all lost weight. It was also the mystery of our weight that made me think of our summers. How were we eating healthy and swimming everyday yet still accumulating weight? 

Here is the line-up of eating. This may be similar to eating in many summer-setups through out Turkey. Some of the recipes/food is unique to the household- some are not. As my parents worked they usually drove from Istanbul for the weekends. I was a constant at the house and spent my days attempting to force my grandparents (if Emily was not around) to play games they were not in the mood to play.I resorted to a corner the rest of the time, scrolling through my uncle's old Martin Mystere comic books whilst listening to TRT radio. (childhood before TV/Web 2.0 sounds so archaic). My parents would bring meat from Gunaydin (now a big shot/but back then he was our family butcher, in his shop in Bostanci) for the weekend bbq. The popular items were kidneys, lamb chops, meatballs. 

The meats would be reserved in the fridge for late Saturday night. The day of eating would start with a big breakfast but I have little recollection of these meals as I started eating breakfast only later in life (how selective food memories are, you remember things you love in every detail and in significant meals disappear almost entirely from memory) The breakfast would be followed by a trip to seaside ( although those who were participating in lunch prep would stay behind such as my mother and grandmother). After the morning exercise it would be time for the second meal of the day preferably buraniye (I still lack a proper picture for it but see below for recipe) Usually 3-4 trays of the potato/yoghurt dish- those who want the second serving would compete with one another for more. My grandfather and some others who overate would go to their respective rooms for a siesta of an hour or so. Impatient kids such as myself would resent that hour as it would be an hour without the sea (or food). 

The afternoon sea activity would be followed by the post-sea afternoon tea meal. That meal may have been the cause of our puffiness. Around 5 o'clock a spread would be on the table. The spread would consist of feta,  homemade jams and ustupak. Ustupak is a delight of Bosnian origin of small fried dough balls. The dough has yoghurt in it so its consistency is flaky whilst being bready. Amazing with a small feta piece on top with a drop of jam. (and 5 or more balls to follow with the same mix). High on carbs and sugar, last visit to the seaside would last until it was almost dark. The evening meal would be later in the evening (9 pm or so). It would either consist of bbq of the fresh caught fish by the men of the house (my grandfather and a group of his son in laws would go for half of the day and come back with a bucket filled with small - mid size fish of Marmara- this is when Marmara used to be clean and swimmable) or the meat brought back from Istanbul. A couple cold dishes and a salad would compliment the meal. For me the drink of choice was water, for the others- they downed raki. (now my summer drink of choice) After 30 minutes time dedicated to absorbing this meal would come the summer treat we all would wait for (miraculous-considering how much we consumed already) - cold watermelon cut and cleaned earlier during the day. Shortly after the water melon, sleep would not be a choice. I think during the summers, we just passed out. 

Now looking back at all this- I am astounded by the amount we ate. I am also astounded that it never seemed too much. There were days that I felt like I did not have enough. I also realize now that I cook and host myself, the amount of work that it must have been to feed that many people. In situations as such, one person usually gives up their time and opportunity to relax. Something as blissful as eating is a result of endless producing. Although thinking back, I would have enjoyed participating in the production process. 

Buraniye (the Kiziltan way) 

(a baked Bosnian potato dish)

Cut the potatoes (depending in quantity as to how many people you are feeding if two a pound and a half would suffice) in slices slightly thicker than potato chips. (the look of it is just like potato chips) 

Spread salt on the sliced pieces- let it wait for 5 minutes - than you squeeze the potatoes to rid it of its excess water. 

Add flour on top just enough to cover all potato pieces ( a way to cover all potatoes is to perhaps put them in a big ziplock bag with flour and shake)

Take a big oven pan (or two- you have to lay potatoes evenly or else they will not cook)  and grease your pan with olive oil 

Spread the potatoes on greased pans and spread over gently 1/4 cups of olive oil. 

Put it in a preheated 200-220 degree oven (400F) and let it cook until all potatoes are crisp for a time it seems too long if you are hungry but in actuality around 30-40 minutes. (I like my potatoes not too crisp whereas some love it crisp- unto you) 

Top it with garlic yoghurt on top of the garlic yoghurt you can also spread melted butter with paprika. 

That's it. You should eat this meal hot and it does not taste as good if it waits so make sure that you make it for an occasion where everyone is waiting for your production.


* not mentioned in the chronicling of the adventures of overeating is the summer-eating out. In the summer towns of Turkey there is always a staple ice-cream shop and a pide (Turkish pizza- for best pide in the world click the link) shop. So the days without home cooking would be filled with a hot package filled with enough lahmacun and pide to feed the whole family.